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Another set of views from the Water Tower begins here below , first with a brief glance eastward and looking down at the west end of New Market Road where traffic turns in front of the yellow building owned by the French S. Most of the large buildings here at the near right are European-owned.

Before moving on, note immediately behind these buildings an expansive spread of very dark-hued trees. This roughly marks the residential area called Odo-Akpu a name denoting an area full of cassava farms , which by has become a major center of Ni-Igbo social life, including prominently people from the nearby towns of Nnewi and Obosi, which we will discuss briefly further below.

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Below , the view from ground level looking uphill along New Market Road. New Market Road is One-way here. Below , a long view of New Market Road at the lower end, where foreign firms for example, Bank of West Africa still appear. As we move uphill, companies are entirely African-owned. First, we can refer again to some maps drawn by S. Oduah in his Onitsha urban geography studies:. This impresses me when I drive through the areas indicated, and their scatter suggests many have sprung up as very local opportunities appear.

The map above also shows locations along Awka Road of the two substantial large foreign engineering firms: All of these foreign-owned companies are out of our focus. Unfortunately, I never manage to visit these shops, nor photograph them. Iweka Road was named after I. He bought land from Ndi-Onicha along this road, and thereafter his sons followed him and became very prominent businessmen in this area.. Jonas Iweka later built Central Hospital, a private institution now located along Iweka Road near Fegge, intending it to serve the needs of the immigrant Igbo populace of the Waterside.

Both men are prominent in Onitsha affairs and we will encounter them elsewhere in this work. I visited this only once and briefly, but it was a substantial and very active complex. My main memory is of a particular product of the numerous tin-workers there: But this was a mere tinket in a very active business place. This commercial area was in part associated with the Nnewi transport industry and commerce I have referred to earlier, and was close to the main locus of residence of Nnewi people in Onitsha at Odo-Akpu.

In , Nnewi businessmen are seeking to buy more plots of land in this area. This part of Onitsha has become an expanding center for Ndi-Igbo residents who have immigrated here over a considerable number of decades from Nnewi, Obosi, and some other nearby towns. Below left and at center, bicycle sales and repair, tire sales; at right, motorcycle repair and sales.

Below , at left a small iron-working shop, at center one devoted to more individual-oriented products, at right a door-and-frame making carpentry shop:. In front of the moderate-sized building that houses it, this one proclaims in detail the foodstuffs it is ready to serve and to cater:. The one advertising above above emphasizes its food-service. Further north, at the intersection of Johnson Street and Old Market Road, one encounters below the River Side Hotel, a much more substantial and complex establishment:.

Then- Nnanyelugo his Ozo -title name Enwezor is one of a very few indigenous, Ndi-Onicha men living in Onitsha who own a substantial profitable business here. And he owns not only one but many, some of them much larger operations than the one whose building you see here. Helen and I scarcely ever visited an Onitsha Hotel, but we went to a celebration once at a very large one in Fegge, the Central Hotel, where large numbers of local people danced and partied to an Orchestra performing on the upstairs floor of the building.

Since Helen then could not drive, I escorted her to the hotel one Friday noon in our Motor-Matches and then returned to retrieve her in the late afternoon. They were also well-organized as an interest group within the Central Hotel, and could proudly tell of cases where members joined to beat up and throw out men who mistreated any one of them. Helen used the research in her later work, but the material as a corpus was never published.

Below , one more important point relating to these businesses: A few women are present scattered about among them. At upper-mid-photo is the Otumoye Pond, a sacred place for Ndi-Onicha , with its outlet, the Nde-nde Stream, running into the Niger just beyond the low, elongated warehouse visible at far right. The houses here are now occupied primarily by renting Ndi-Igbo traders though some own theirs as well. The wood on sale here, and also as we have seen near the Otu-Okwodu to the north, comes from many different localities.

Wood is sufficiently plentiful in Onitsha markets that efforts to develop a coal market here have ultimately failed, Years earlier, though, in the s John Holt was definitely bringing coal to the Waterside. At right , looking directly downstream, in July one can make out in mid-river the first pillars of the prospective Niger Bridge. To the left of this pylon, jutting out into the river, is the low-lying beach toward the downstream end of which Ogbe-Ukwu Big Village is located, the prime place of residence for some prominent trader-settlers dating from the turn of the twentieth century coming from downriver and called Ndi-Olu , riverain people from Aboh and also from the Itsekiri area of the southwestern Delta, some of whom were prominent powers in the early twentieth-century Onitsha marketplace.

A cassava fermentation and sifting industry is being conducted along this site, where small-paddle- boats bring baskets of cassava coming from some of the Ndi-Olu -connected towns north of Onitsha on the Anambra River and its Mamu River tributary , for example Nteje, Umuleri, Aguleri, Awkuzu and Ekwere-Emmaka. Odutola and that of Igbo -owned Ugo-Chukwu tyre-retreading.

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At left , a map showing the village. For some time the people of Ogbe-Ukwu have faced difficulties in light of their situation in an expanding Onitsha-urban society. But by , their situation has become dire: During our stay in Onitsha, they repeatedly beg for consideration in finding new quarters, but by , they were gone and apparently were eventually awarded some compensation from Government to help them find new quarters. At right , see S.

Watercourses are marked in aqua, major streets in yellow.

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Ndi-Onicha descendants of the early Christians retained many of these houses. At right, a brick building imitating early European Colonial residences, stylish early in the 20th Century. A titled Onye-Onicha lives here, yet retains active interests in the Enu side. By the s, some descendants of these early Sierra Leoneans et al and quite a number of Ndi-Onicha still reside in this vicinity , and some of the Sierra-Leonean heirs continue to follow recognizably-distinctive life-styles deriving from that 19th-century past.

Note the large array of palm-wine jugs in front of the house. The owner lives just east of a palm-wine bar here shown at right , and another competing one is located further up the street. This location is close enough to the nearby marketplace to draw some customers from there. Note the youths parading at right, one wearing masquerade gear. These are Ndi-Onicha children, proclaiming their control of this territory. This Village maintains some of its historical organization. The names of the streets here record some of the early Ndi-Onicha Christian converts: Emejulu Street, Obianwu, Okosieme, Mbanugo, Obianwu — all these streets are named after early Onitsha converts who lived here and streets named after Sierra Leoneans are present in Onitsha too, e.

Ogbe-umu-Onicha sits just behind the Otu-Okwuodu marketplace, with Ajassa Street marking the boundary.

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To approach the rest of the visual feast spreading out in an eastward fan from the Main Market area, an informative way to begin is to consider S. In this drawing below I take his information and add colored stars — red for the Roman Catholic Mission RCM , blue for the Church Missionary Society CMS, tha Anglicans to designate some of the major centers of activity built by each of these two competing Christian groups: This very dense dense distribution of church and educational complexes is a prime reason for the historical-prominence of Onitsha in Nigeria as a whole: As it happened, in , the first missionaries of the Church Missionary Society arranged with the most Senior Chief of Umu-Dei to get some land they could occupy for housing.

The missionaries mostly survived as we will discuss elswhere , and over time various CMS establishments grew up in this vicinity, most prominently D. See a view of it below 47 Below , a view of the football field at D. Below , a group of young men playing what appears to be rugby there. Note the view of the Niger River available at this location.

The scene here echoes a statement made by then-Reverend Samuel Crowther on July 28,, when he observed that The land selected for the Mission station is on the right as you go up on the west border of the town, on a gentle slope, clear of wood, airy, and from which the river is in full view. Over the years the RCM directed construction of three major schools in the southeastern corner of Onitsha, which you see here at right marked with red crosses. While CKC is by far the most prestigious of these institutions, all three are very substantial and important religious and educational complexes for all of southeastern Nigeria and beyond.

Note the blue crosses marked on the map, which point to two CMS schools in the same general area. These are considerably smaller-scale than their RCM neighbors, but the venerable Reverend Anyaegbunam Memorial School CMS is of considerable importance in the history of Nigerian education and still active.

Add purchase info here. Returning now to our Water Tower and looking out toward the horizon, we see the hills that lie above the rest of the town: We now turn our attention to this part of the city. Javascript appears to be disabled in your browser. Please turn on Javascript in order to fully enjoy this website. Otu Onitsha Waterside Note: Click on any image you may want to enlarge. Moving slowly along the river on the massive government ferry, one can see some Ndi-Olu streaking past heading downriver presumably toward one of the Onitsha marketplaces further south: Produce-laden canoe, March Canoes March Much of the produce we see moving this way is coming from the Anambra River floodplain directly north of Onitsha, with its extensive plantations of Guinea yam and rice but much also comes from Northern Nigeria as well.

Passenger ferry, Niger near Onitsha March First sighting our destination in late September , we have almost no conception of the human meanings associated with the string of lands lying before us. Akpaka Forest Preserve to Marina Ferry Landing To the right, a map of the northern fringes of the town show where it fades into the rising expanse of the Akpaka Forest Reserve. Below , on this rainy day pedestrians walk out from and toward the ferry along the zig-zag road, while vehicles are loading: The visual prominence of Holy Trinity here barely reflects its importance as an icon of the Roman Catholic Mission in the history of Onitsha, which began in when Obi Anazonwu granted French Mission Fathers this substantial block of land 4 The map below gives a sense of the extent of the lands granted to the RCM in the Waterside, stretching from just below what is now the P.

The coastal strip of Onitsha from north to south, September Below , this labeled image shows major divisions of the central coast more clearly. Below , viewing the place now from a higher vantage-point on the east bank, you see a mass of traders dealing with yams and other produce here: If you get in touch with our Onitsha dating members then you have a good chance of arranging a hook up in the area.

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